Icacos or Palomino? Which Fajardo island you can actually land on

The two islands at a glance

Why the two get mixed up

Both islands sit in the same chain of cays off Fajardo, and boat listings often name them together. The difference is who owns the ground.

The chain is the La Cordillera Reef Nature Reserve (Reserva Natural Arrecifes de La Cordillera), designated in 1980. According to the DRNA's management plan for the reserve, the federal government transferred the Cordillera islands to Puerto Rico in 1965. Two islands in the chain, Palominos and Cayo Lobos, appear on the property tax rolls as private land, so they were left out of the reserve. The water around them, the sea floor and the narrow strip of shore along the waterline are still part of the reserve.

Icacos is the opposite case. The same plan says Icacos and its neighbor, Cayo Ratones, are held by a government agency, Puerto Rico's Industrial Development Company, and are managed by the DRNA as part of the reserve. When a rumor spread in 2018 that Icacos was for sale, the DRNA publicly said it was not.

Icacos: the island you can land on

Icacos is small, flat and uninhabited, with white sand beaches on its south and north sides and shallow water off the south side, where the day boats anchor. The operators describe stepping off the boat into knee-deep water; one says non-swimmers can walk to shore. The ride from the Fajardo marinas is short, about 45 minutes on one operator's schedule.

The rules worth knowing:

• No camping. Camping on Icacos was allowed until 1997. The DRNA banned it after campers damaged the vegetation and left trash, and its plan keeps the ban for every cay in the reserve.
• Stay off the small rock islets. The plan names the islets around Icacos and Ratones as seabird nesting habitat and proposes keeping people off them, especially during the breeding season, March to September. Stay on the main beach.
• Leave the reef alone. The reserve's reef guidance says keep your distance, do not touch or stand on coral, and do not feed or chase wildlife. Local and federal laws protect sea turtles and marine mammals.
• The DRNA fee. Operators add a $3 per person DRNA fee to Icacos trips. Some collect it in cash at check-in, so bring small bills. We could not find the fee on a DRNA page; it appears on the operators' own pages.

The DRNA's plan proposed opening Icacos to public visitors, along with the beach at Cayo Lobos, Cayo Diablo and Palominitos, and keeping the rest of the reserve's cays closed. That plan dates from 2009 and we could not confirm which parts are in force today. In practice, the licensed day boats land on Icacos every day of the season.

The plan also proposed building basic restrooms and trails on Icacos. We found no sign they were built. Use the bathroom on the boat.

[ISAIAH: first-hand note here. Whether there are any signs, restrooms or shade on Icacos today, how crowded the south beach was at midday, and how deep the water was at the boat.]

How to get to Icacos

You go with a tour. The Fajardo catamarans that land on Icacos leave from Villa Marina or Puerto del Rey marina in the morning and are back by mid-afternoon, with lunch and drinks on board. Our Fajardo catamaran guide compares every trip we checked. Three to start with:

Families: East Island Excursions, Icacos Snorkeling and Beach Tour. A 65-foot sailing catamaran with a water slide and underwater windows. All ages. Puerto del Rey Marina.

Smaller boat: Sail Getaways, Public Icacos Sailing Catamaran Beach Day. A 32-foot catamaran for 26 passengers at most, about two hours on the beach plus a reef stop. Villa Marina.

Lowest price: Al Este, Traveler Catamaran Icacos Tour. One beach stop and one reef stop, deli lunch and rum drinks. Ages 4 and up. Villa Marina.

Prices are before tax and the DRNA fee. All three companies appear on the reserve's list of authorized tour operators.

Palomino: the private island

Palomino is the larger, hilly island off the resort's coast. Its own pages call it "our private island." The resort's FAQ says Palomino, like its water park, spa, pools and restaurants, is "exclusive to resort guests and members," and states plainly: "Day passes are unavailable."

If you are staying at El Conquistador, the resort runs its own boat to the island. Its Palomino page lists boat hours of 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., with a boat leaving the resort every hour from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and the last return at 5:00 p.m., and says hours can change and the boat may stop in bad weather. Coolers are not allowed. Snorkel gear, paddle and kayak rentals, and jet ski tours are offered on the island, first come, first served; cabana (bohío) rentals go through the resort concierge. The resort says the island is fully accessible, including a beach wheelchair.

[ISAIAH: first-hand note here, only if a stay happens. The boat wait at 10 a.m., what a day on Palomino cost per person in extras, and whether outside tour boats were anchored offshore.]

If you are not staying there, you cannot book Palomino. Some travel sites still mention day passes; the resort's own FAQ says they are unavailable, and the resort's word is the one that counts. You may see tour boats anchored in the water near Palomino. The water and the shoreline strip belong to the reserve, but the island's beach facilities, chairs and restaurant are the resort's, and we found no official guidance for visitors arriving by boat. Do not plan a day around it.

What about Palominito? Palominito is the tiny sand cay just south of Palomino, inside the reserve. Some catamarans stop at the reef nearby. It has been shrinking for years: in 2017 the DRNA's coastal program director told Primera Hora that erosion, made worse by rising seas, was wearing it away. Treat it as a snorkel stop, not a beach day.

Which one should you pick?

• Not staying at El Conquistador: Icacos, on a day catamaran. It is the only one of the two you can book.
• Staying at El Conquistador: Palomino is included and easy. If you want a reef snorkel and a quieter, undeveloped beach, add an Icacos day on a catamaran.
• Want a full island day with a famous beach: neither. Look at Culebra. Our Culebra ferry vs catamaran guide explains how to make sure you end up on Flamenco.

Weather and safety

The catamarans watch the marine forecast and cancel when the sea is rough; the operators we checked refund or reschedule weather cancellations. On the shore, the National Weather Service in San Juan posts a daily rip current risk for the northeast coast, including Fajardo. On November 8 it had a high rip current risk in effect through Monday afternoon, November 9. If a high-risk day lines up with your trip, ask the operator where it will anchor and stay close to the boat crew.

What to bring

• Cash in small bills for the $3 DRNA fee
• Reef-safe sunscreen (some boats ban spray sunscreen because it makes the deck slippery)
• Water shoes for the step off the boat
• A photo ID and the card you booked with, if your operator asks for them
• A dry bag for your phone

FAQ

Can you visit Palomino Island without staying at El Conquistador? No. The resort says Palomino is exclusive to resort guests and members, and that day passes are unavailable.

Can anyone go to Icacos? Yes, on a tour boat. Icacos is public land in a DRNA nature reserve, and the Fajardo day catamarans land there.

Can you camp on Icacos? No. The DRNA banned camping on Icacos in 1997.

How much is the Icacos fee? Operators charge a $3 per person DRNA fee on top of the tour price. Some take it in cash only.

Is Palominito the same as Palomino? No. Palominito is a tiny eroding cay just south of Palomino, inside the reserve. Some boats snorkel the reef nearby.